Wednesday, July 28, 2010

A Final Fall Couture Post: JPG

Jean Paul Gaultier is a avid patron of theatrics. His most recent haute couture show is certainly proof of that, complete with over-sized turban headpieces, a "bride" playing herself down the runway, and the casting of burlesque darling Dita Von Teese. Gaultier's inspiration appeared to be more Parisian than other recent work. Who could forget Spring 2010's L.A. gang influence? Tailoring seemed a significant focus, as was playing up sexuality; two of JPG's strengths. It wasn't the best I've seen from the visionary designer, but he pulled out some killer pieces.

Karlie Kloss
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Julia Schoenberg
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Alana Zimmer
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Kim Noorda
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Alessandra Albrecht
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Olga Sherer
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Joan Smalls
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Aline Weber
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Dita Von Teese
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Daiane Conterato
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Emina Cunmulaj
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Frida Gustavsson
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Jessica Stam
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Kate Somers
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Magdalena Frackowiak
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Thana Kuhnen
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Elena Lazic
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Dita Von Teese and Jean Paul Gaultier
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Photos via style.com

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Valentino

Tim Blanks' review of the Fall 2010 Valentino couture show pointed out his disdain for the fashion house's rapidly changing target customer and the inappropriate theme of "The Dark Side of First Love." He then commented that this was "haute couture for the Twilight generation." I cringed at that rather unfair comment. I'd appreciate not being lumped in with the crazed fans of an abstinence-peddling piece of shit franchise.

Moving on, it is true that the collection appeared to be aimed at an under 30 customer with the generally short silhouette. It seems that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are continuing to (ruthlessly) move further from the house's legendary founding designer's vision, though I'm sure it's a business decision. I find the whole thing quite sad, but enjoyed the collection anyway. I certainly did not find it to be "dark" though, as it was complete with ballet pink dresses and cutesy bows. In any case, some beautiful garments walked the runway.

Freja Beha Erichsen
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Kirsi Pyrhonen
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Siri Tollerød
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Katie Fogarty
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Freja Beha Erichsen
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Gwen Loos
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Dorothea Barth Jorgensen
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Ajak Deng
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Kristy Kaurova
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Basia
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Jac
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Siri Tollerød
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Anna Selezneva
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Kasia Struss
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Freja Beha Erichsen
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Caroline Brasch Nielsen
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Photos via style.com

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Chanel

For the past week or so, I've searched my brain for the words to describe the latest Chanel couture show. A deeper, darker color pallet stands in stark contrast to the light Spring couture collection and the whimsical Resort show. After a procession of beautiful coat looks, the glamor was heightened by details such as beading and lace. I remain at a loss in terms of full understanding, but I see traces of the English Court circa Henry VIII, as well as a slight Oriental influence. A lion statue and a stuffed lion head alluded to Coco Chanel's astological sign, but their significance to the collection escapes me. The tousled hair and matte red lips contribute beautifully. I may be a bit lost, but the beauty is undeniably present.

Natasha Poly
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Aline Weber
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Magdalena Frackowiak
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Caroline Brasch Nielsen
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Siri Tollerød
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Jac
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Jacquelyn Jablonski
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Freja Beha Erichsen
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Anna Selezneva
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So Young Kang
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Liu Wen
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Sigrid Agren
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Kristy Kaurova
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Michaela Kocianova
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Hanne Gaby Odiele
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Magdalena Frackowiak
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Jacquelyn Jablonski
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Bo Don
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Abbey Lee Kershaw
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Freja Beha Erichsen
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Iris Strubegger and Baptiste Giabiconi
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Photos via style.com