Gareth Pugh

This season Gareth Pugh's collection, like his presentation, had a focus on the future and technology. Instead of having a typical runway show, the young designer collaborated with supermodel Kristin McMenamy, model Jonathan Baker, and filmmaker Ruth Hogben to create a short film for the collection. Kristin is a force of nature within the technological universe created for her, showing the beautiful movement to the clothes. The collection itself was fairly light for Pugh in terms of color, with only a few black pieces. Bionic-looking paneling, sharp lines, and mirrored fabrics met unexpectedly flowing shapes that came alive through film. The lookbook hardly holds a candle, but I selected a few looks that I particularly like that can be more easily seen than the sometimes kaleidoscopic film. Watch it and you will more readily understand the beauty created by the aforementioned artists.

Hanna Kern models.











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Missoni

The Missoni show was a exuberant celebration of color, pop art, and travel. The layering of clashing prints and acidic colors were a barrage on the eyes. After taking a step back and catching my breath, I thought it was rather fantastic. Words and phrases like "FEEL IT", "HONEY", and "SHAKING ALL OVER" were taken from 90's rap songs and literally inserted into the clothes, showing the youth-culture influence Margherita is contributing to her mother Angela's ideas. The tribal-ethnic influence was untraceable, shaping the current Missoni girl into a global ambassador of sorts. The hats worn may be a take on graduation caps, as the setting of the show was a Milanese university, but their relevance to the collection is about as unclear as their commerical success will be. For the finale walk, the models outstretched their arms like children acting as airplanes, but despite the questionable significance the spirit of the action just made sense. FEEL IT.

Lindsey Wixson

Sasha Pivovarova

Melissa Tammerjin

Lisanne De Jong

Jac

Daria Strokous

Jourdan Dunn

Fei Fei Sun

Iris Strubegger

Sara Blomqvist

Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Julija Steponaviciute


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Dolce & Gabbana

The use of virginal white by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana seems almost humorous, as the label is known for its sex appeal. The designers were inspired by brides in southern Italy and the giving of a hope chest. White lace appeared in almost every single look, though black and leopard made an appearance as well. These looks are perhaps for those moments when the pseudo-virginal woman is more brazenly naughty. While the collection was generally quite soft and feminine, the white lace was often far from modest. It felt very tongue-in-cheek to me. A series of sparkling looks closed the astounding 80 look show, though sadly their dramatic effect does not come through in still images (I recommend seeking out video). I edited rather brutally so I wasn't posting 40 looks. The following are my favorites.

Natasha Poly

Joan Smalls

Alessandra Ambrosio

Freja Beha Erichsen

Edita Vilkeviciute

Jourdan Dunn

Joan Smalls

Karlie Kloss

Freja Beha Erichsen

Kasia Struss

Frida Gustavsson

Anna Selezneva

Ginta Lapina


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Bottega Veneta

Tomas Maier's latest collection for Bottega Veneta was a lesson in easy, chic dressing. The girls came out, hair wet, in clothes that seemed quite simple, but given the quiet details, the work itself was quite complicated. Maier experimented a great deal with different materials, especially in the beginning of the show, with black looks featuring mesh, leather, and fabric all at once. The loose leather pants (on Caroline Brasch Neilsen and Shu Pei Qin) and Jesus sandals would be welcome additions to my closet. The color pallete was strictly neutral save for a single baby blue feathered dress (not featured), giving the collection a kind of season-less quality. The details—including crinkling on pants and embroidered down feathers—were subtle, but made the collection. With this collection, Maier made a powerful statement about workmanship and wearable clothing that did not disappoint.

Freja Beha Erichsen

Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Shu Pei Qin

Daria Strokous

Patricia van der Vliet

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Melodie Monrose

Sigrid Agren

Alana Zimmer

Patricia van der Vliet

Karmen Pedaru

Freja Beha Erichsen


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Marni

The Marni woman will be ready for athletics and adventure come Spring with Consuelo Castiglioni's latest collection. This season, the designer merged sporty clothing with a luxurious twist, completely maintaining Marni's reputation for eccentricity. There was a quite obvious scuba aspect throughout the show and many of the models wore some version of biker shorts on the runway. Topped off with flying caps, the girls looked ready to explore the world. By integrating pieces such as the beautiful rosy-colored perforated leather coat that opened the show, Castiglioni subverted the idea of athleticism. Another favorite of mine were the looks which included the lovely daisy lace. Bold prints and bright colors—typical choices at Marni—continued to distort the ideas of the show in the most fantastic way. The show ended with a set of paillette-covered looks, down to the biker shorts, channeling the most wonderfully impractical athletic energy. I've never been a sports fan, but a Marni fan, I most certainly am.

Freja Beha Erichsen

Samantha Gradoville

Sigrid Agren

Daiane Conterato

Kasia Wrobel

Zuzanna Bijoch

Kate Kosushkina

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Karmen Pedaru

Joan Smalls

Melodie Monrose

Samantha Gradoville

Zuzanna Bijoch

Sigrid Agren

Marina Peres

Jaquelyn Jablonski

Joan Smalls

Sigrid Agren

Karmen Pedaur


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