I've never really followed Pucci, but have known the house for producing sexy dresses in bold prints. While in New York inside Bergdorf Goodman, a woman was trying on a dress, while I casually talked to her saleslady. She emerged and my first reaction was, "Is that Pucci?" There seems to be a formula at the house. Peter Dundas appears to be moving away from the predictable, while still retaining the house's spirit. The models walking in his latest collection looked like European beach-loving bohemians. Amazing over-the-knee boots added some rock and roll to the equation and I was in love. Dundas was inspired by the Greek Islands, communicating a sense of freedom through the clothes. The use of white and blue—a Greek hallmark—within the extremely fluid collection was a perfect reference translated into an effortless beauty. This collection has me rethinking my opinion of the fashion house and dreaming of a vacation.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Versace
Donatella Versace surprised me this season with how toned-down her collection was. More often than not, her skirts fell below the knee and she even included a couple suit looks. Obviously it was sexy, with an emphasis on the body-conscious and cutouts here and there, but it felt far more sophisticated than usual. It's not that Donatella's trademark super-sexy aesthetic bothers me, but this collection was a nice shift away from the obvious. The designer was inspired by Greece, employing the Greek key border that Gianna used in the house's past. It looked best to me when used on a smaller scale, especially when integrated into more abstract prints. Seductive bright blues and oranges were better than a postcard from the Mediterranean, but my favorite looks were multicolored, especially those with fringe waving off them. Side note: Fringe is everywhere. Hello trend for Spring 2011. The way neutrals and brights were put together was fantastic, whether it be within a garment or due to a pair of contrasting shoes. Just like this collection, the juxtaposition is a pleasant surprise.
Prada
Every collection Miuccia Prada designs can be equated to a cultural encyclopedia, with a myriad of references that can often seem completely unrelated. With her ideas, Miuccia creates clothing that she believes fills a certain gap in the current climate of fashion. This season Ms. Prada referenced everything from the fabulous Josephine Baker to uniforms to Central and South American culture. The design genius present a collection of simply-cut clothing seen in saturated colors, Baroque-inspired prints, stripes, and basic black. Clashing colors simply made the experience of viewing the collection all the more thrilling. From the chunky espadrille wedges reminiscent of layered ice cream to the technicolor fur stoles to the banana print ruffled skirts, I feel so in love with the collection and the spirit it radiates. Even the nearly minimalist, subtly sexy black dresses at the end of the show had me in pieces. I can't say I'm completely sold on the oversized bowling shirts, but questioning what's to be considered beautiful is part of Miuccia's aesthetic. She would not be as revered as she is without producing clothing that is at times, quite difficult to swallow. And when she takes her bow, wearing bright banana earrings against her simple gray sweater, it is clear to me that she is extraordinary.
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Fendi
This season, Fendi was atypically light and airy. When I think of Karl Lagerfeld, I don't imagine a flouncy white dress opening a show he has a hand in. Of course, this wasn't just a flouncy white dress. The few opening white dresses had a fantastic singed look to them, as if carefully burned or stained with coffee. The entire collection looked like a vacation waiting to happen, with an exceptional easy glamor about them. At times, the collection was even playful, where looks featured flowers floating about the garment. I couldn't be more surprised after the heavy Fall collection, where fur patchworks appeared feral and wild, and the daywear was beautifully somber. Fendi was of course, originally a furrier, so it was used this time around, but quite minimally. This is the Spring collection of course. In any case, Karl and Silvia Venturini Fendi have provided a refreshing alternative to seasons past.
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