The Androgyny Issue

Katie Grand knows just how to woo me. I was over-the-moon when I saw the upcoming cover of LOVE. An upcoming issue of the magazine is always something to look forward to, but this particular issue, covered by Kate Moss and Riccardo Tisci muse, Lea T. left me with more satisfaction than usual. Fashion has recently embraced a number of individuals that do not fall into gender and/or sexuality norms, inviting in femme boys, butch girls, and others to feel at home in the sea of beauty.

Lea T., for example, is a young transgendered woman who has practically skyrocketed to fashion fame, appearing in a Givenchy campaign, runway show, and haute couture presentation. Recently, she's been shot for Vogue Paris and covered Lurve. The reassuring thing is that her presence doesn't seem like a gimmick. Riccardo Tisci has communicated his great friendship for Lea quite endlessly and she's a gorgeous model as well.

Another androgynous face likely to be seen in the magazine is Andrej Pejic, a male model whose long Barbie-blond hair and feminine features have caught the attention of several fashion industry players. His rather boyish turn in the S/S 2011 Marc by Marc Jacobs campaign seems odd, but I assume it's Marc twisting our ideas about gender roles even further. The Androgyny Issue is a cause for personal excitement simply because I don't dress like most boys and seeing alternative viewpoints being praised in a magazine I adore is quite the validation. I suppose there is potential for exploitation when featuring new and novel ideas, but I trust that the industry is so gay (and generally accepting) that this wave of attention is simply a celebration and liberation of all of us who don't follow the path we're so pressured into following. I did cringe a little when a classmate last quarter declared, "I think androgyny is becoming in." What an ugly word and a hideous thought, as if this is a fleeting moment. Let's hope not. I'll bet you've done us proud Miss Grand!

All photos via fashiongonerogue.com

Hidden Place

Seek solace, sanctuary, in the hidden place. Fairytales, flits of whimsy, and their darker secrets have me in a beautiful rapture. Among fairies and forest animals we'll walk, for pagan poetry seems a fitting substitute for the often disappointing world of reality. Not even the thought of depraved witches puts fear in my heart, for if they at all mimic that which GaGa emulates, they shall be wonderfully devious in ruffled bloomers and towering Nina Ricci platforms. Perhaps they'll join us, because in our world, good and evil are just a way of seeing things. The cruel thoughts belong to those in reality. I wish a flock of Monarch butterflies would perch upon my person, so I could join Sarah Burton's wood nymphs and women warriors. Sprouting Balenciaga wings would be a worthy alternative. A happy ending will not need manifest itself, for in this world the dreams never end. We are stardust, we are golden.

Delfine Bafort Shot by Sebastian Faena and styled by Kate Shillingford for V via MYFDBlog/Sasha Pivovarova by Tim Walker via Fashion Gone Rogue (2 , 11)/tvtropes/Lily Cole, Andrew Garfied, and Lady GaGa shot by Annie Leibovitz, styled by Grace Coddington for Vogue US via Fashionising (4, 8)/Sasha Pivovarova and Guinevere van Seenus shot by Paolo Roversi styled by Jacob K for Vogue Italia via Fashion Gone Rogue (5 ,7 )/Sasha Pivovarova for Prada S/S 2008 via I want - I got/Daphne Groenveld and Steven Thompson for Givenchy S/S 2011 via Fashion Gone Rogue/Sigrid Agren for Stella McCartney F/W 2009 via Trendland /Lily Donaldson, Sasha Pivovarova, Patricia van der Vliet, Caroline Trentini, Mirte Maas shot by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue US via Fashion Gone Rogue

Flash, Bang.

Insomnia met wakeful dreaming, a flash and exhilaration. All I will say is that it has something to do with a favorite design team of mine. More later. Sweet dreams lovers.

My Class Schedule

Survey of Tribal Art

Alexander Wang 2011


Celine 2011

Already it's clear that the diction regarding this course is a touchy subjects, as "tribal" and "primitive" often come under fire for not being politically correct. The fashion world also experiences similar heat when it interprets other cultures in certain ways. As for the Alexander Wang show, it's not the clothes, but the beauty elements that seem tribal, in the most literal meaning of the word. Bleached brows, septum piercings, and twisted, clay-soaked hair give the girls a ferocity that speaks to a less modern society, but somehow breaches the gap to work successfully with the urban clothing. At Celine, Phoebe Philo incorporated an artisan quality to the clothes, with woven pieces being my personal highlight. In my mind, they reference both African and South American parts of society that lack the urban sprawl Western societies are used to. That's not to say that lacking is a bad thing. I look forward to learning more about other cultures through this class and perhaps shed some of the ethnocentrism I've no doubt acquired during my life in the not-so-glorious U.S. of A.

The Planets

Christopher Kane Resort 2011

There is no collection more appropriate to represent my random Astronomy class, The Planets. Christopher Kane's prints of nebulae, galaxies, and the like are absolutely gorgeous and almost provoke my interest in Astronomy. The class itself may not measure up to his fantastic resort collection, but I'll keep dreaming.

Human Sexuality

Yves San Laurent Spring 2011


Marc Jacobs Spring 2011


Altuzarra Spring 2011

Sexuality is something I'm often enthralled by, whether it be related to my own experiences, in art, or elsewhere. Apparently, I'm not alone. At YSL, Stefano Pilati designed a lovely collection with elements of sex without going over the edge. Sometimes I'm not sure where my edge is, but such things are hardly ever black and white. A sheer top sans bra might be a frightening thought for most women, but I don't find it to be particularly vulgar or over-sexed at all. I generally just come to assume it's an American thing to be prudish in that way. French fashion, film, and other forms of art, often approach sex with ease, as if it's just part of life. Don't tell anyone over here, for they might just combust. Marc Jacobs also played with sheer fabrics for Spring to a more playful end, referencing the Seventies. The spirit of the decade is present with flowing dresses and exposed breasts. Sometimes I'm sad I missed a time for such freedom. As for Altuzarra, he went a more brazen direction, complete with cone bras. It is certainly a more aggressive way to infuse sex into fashion, but it's powerful and endlessly beautiful. Sure it's a bit vulgar, but it doesn't undermine or objectify women. It's a harnessed sexuality, not an accessible one. As you might guess, I'm quite pleased to be in this class. The professor is one I've had before and she mindfully acknowledges the comical situations that may arise, all the while expecting her students to leave ignorance at the door. It's all love, no matter what that means for you.

If this collection of looks is any indication, it's going to be a wonderful quarter.

All photos via style.com

Passionate bright young things

Perfect getting-ready music.

"Everglade"

The Original.

Side note: I had the privilege of meeting Scott in New York, outside a show. It was quite brief, but it is wonderful when you can tell someone you appreciate their work.

An Education

I've been meaning to watch An Education for quite some time now, so when I went to Netflix for a relaxing movie night, I gasped at the fact it was available for instant viewing. No decision necessary. Just hit play. The film tells the story of Jenny (Carey Mulligan) who is an intelligent potentially Oxford-bound schoolgirl, lost in the expectations of her demanding father. She lives for literature and dreams of going to Paris after school, where she "be French", will smoke, and wear black. Perhaps these seem quite simple and rather silly ambitions, but it is freedom that she truly lusts for.

With a chance encounter with a mysterious older man, she gains freedom, or at least more. She is introduced to a beautiful life lived by her interest, David, and his friends Helen and Danny. Their age difference is less discouraged than simply a matter of gossip. England is blessed with more freedoms when it comes selection of sexual partners in terms of age, or so they tell me. David woos Jenny with his world, or what appears to be, which includes fine art, music she dreams of hearing, and a trip to Paris. Along the way, she "evolves" into a woman, abandoning her lifeless hair and uniform for glamorous up-dos and lovely dresses, the uniform of a Sixties socialite. She is being educated by scholars of life—hard knocks beyond withheld. With all of life's beauty, she gets swept up and seems to forget about herself. Her straight-laced English teacher, Miss Stubbs, is one of the few that pushes her to snap out of it, to little success. She is actually one of my favorite characters, because a passionate spirit emerges from a steely shell. An independent woman and an English teacher no less and I'm in love. Needless to say, the plot thickens. By the end of the film, Jenny has learned more than she could ever expect, but I'll just let you figure out exactly what that means.

My hopes were not let down with this film. It's both a beautiful and thought-provoking film, for which I'm thankful for. I probably watch brainless movies too often. Carey Mulligan is adorable and nothing short of incredibly engaging. I am eager to see where her career will go (A Vogue cover has already happened). Anyway, I'm off to bed. I'll be having sweet dreams of British accents, French records, and traveling to Paris with that seemingly-batty old English teacher. Kiss kiss.

Images via aceshowbiz, SFGate, screencrave, rotten tomatoes, And Your Little Blog, Too

Mr. Ford's Lounge Act

Finally a in-motion peek inside the endlessly-discussed, but hush-hush Tom Ford comeback show. The show itself seems to mirror the clothes, as it focuses on a unrestrained and charismatic sense of beauty. The lounge-like setting complements the Seventies motifs and the subdued flits of Ford's notorious love of sexuality present in the collection. The opened down-to-there shirts were simultaneously nostalgic and modern. Ford's brand of sexy may just be what Fashion is missing. My favorite design motif was the hairy-looking fringe on several of the pieces, seen in shades ranging from pale pink to electric blue. The way Daphne Guiness worked her long evening coat drove me to maniacal giggles of happiness. There was also the fantastic shag carpet-like chubby on Joan Smalls. I want. His models were simply women who inspired him, regardless of age, race, or size. More than anything the show seems like the product of things the now-reclusive designer loves. Perhaps it's a simple and undeniably obvious concept, but it has brought forth beautiful results.

Some kids played house...

I'm sure my childhood obsession with Grease is responsible in part for my obsession with leather.

I'll be waiting

05.23.2011



SHOWstudio

Happy New Year!

S/S 2011 Marc Jacobs campaign image via fashiongonerogue

For the moment.

Sometimes I miss playing the piano...

Black Swan

After waiting for what seems like ages, I finally went to see Black Swan with my friend Anna. I went in expecting a great film and I came out in absolute awe. It was jarring, even frightening, and undeniably beautiful. Everything from the cinematography to the actors' performances to the Rodarte-designed ballet costumes was incredible. Nina—played by Natalie Portman—possesses a headspace that is so overrun with the expectations of others and outside influence that deep psychological conflict overcomes her. The way she operates at the beginning of the film is infantile, but with a series of wicked strides, she learns to escape her innocence. The film pointedly shows its viewers that we can be our own greatest enemies. It certainly encourages self-exploration and an evaluation of our desires and self-concepts. While films of a psychological nature can often leave gaps, Black Swan was seamlessly developed. There are things left up to question, but the story comes to a head with the support of stressful relationships and the disastrous evaluations of them. The physical, shock art-like aspects of the film don't seem excessive, but absolutely necessary. It will be a shame if director Darren Aronofsky and Natalie Portman don't receive awards for their work. With only the best of intentions, I wish upon you lovely and visceral nightmares.

Photos viadaemonmovies, The Guardian, indiegeniusprod.com, salon.com

This Christmas, I want to be with the ballerinas.

During the holidays, my mother always plays Tchaikovsky's The Nutcracker, often gushing about her love for the show. Acting as clumsy ballerinas, my brother and I would often "perform" to the music, whether it be on tables or leaping across our bedrooms. Truth be told, I have gotten past a need to criticize the characteristically feminine and not only appreciate, but love ballet and those who perform. With the presence of The Nutcracker and the less classically celebrated Black Swan, I see no reason to not celebrate the look and work of a ballerina. I still have yet to see Natalie Portman's latest triumph and it's absolutely killing me. Marc Jacobs' Spring 2010 collection—inspired by dancers leaving rehearsals in a fashion that is both casual and created—led to my adaptation of what my friends call the "mini-bun," a high bun on top of my head. The beautiful tension between reality and fantasy within that show has yet to let me go from its grasp. This is just one of fashion's many takes on ballet, as it seems to be a recurring infatuation. I know it is for me, whether they be lovely girls in hyper-feminine attire or a naughtier, more twisted version. When I go out tonight—I know it's Christmas—I'll be thinking of the unearthly creatures that look as if they walk on air. While their form of dancing is controlled and disciplined, mine is aggressive and unbridled. Even so, passion will be present. Didn't your mother ever tell you? Dancing can set you free.

The album in question

Karlie Kloss by Tim Walker for Vogue UK






Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2010



Karlie Kloss by Dusan Reljin for Vogue Paris



Marc Jacobs Spring



Karlie Kloss by Tim Walker for Vogue UK




Rodarte sketches for Black Swan



Caroline Trentini by Arthur Elgort for American Vogue



Karlie Kloss by Dusan Reljin for Vogue Paris



Valentino Spring/Summer 2011



Natalie Portman by Peter Lindbergh in American Vogue



Karlie Kloss by Dusan Reljin for Vogue Paris



My favorite Tchaikovsky to leap to



Hold me closer tiny dancer...

Classic Vinyl, Runway images via style.com, editorial images via Fashion Gone Rogue, Black Swan images via NY Daily News