Spring Couture 2011: Armani Privé

Mr. Armani put forth his taste for shine and space in his most recent haute couture collection. The imposing presence of jewel tones and a futuristic theme is quite the departure for the designer. It almost seems that he's taking cues from a relatively recently established client, Lady GaGa. Silky, reflective fabrics can be seen throughout the collection, appearing to be near-liquid, ready to melt off the models. Challenging shapes were abundant as well, sometimes completely disappearing to allow a stripe of more body-conscious fabric to emerge. On top of it all, saucer-shaped hats by Phillip Treacy decorated the heads of nearly every girl who walked. I will have to admit, I'm having trouble taking in the show. Besides the fact that Armani has completely flipped my vocabulary of the "Armani Woman," I've taken issue with some of the shapes, the fit, fabrics, and even colors. If I'm being completely honest, I even thought to myself (mostly in reference to this look), "How can something so labor-intensive and utterly expensive look so cheap?" Perhaps the view from my computer screen does not have the power to translate the beauty and movement of the clothes. My top picks are some of the most streamlined looks in the entire collection. I'm always up for excessive volume or odd proportions, but for some reason this show hasn't yet clicked. To be fair, I love the looks below, but I don't feel that way about the entire collection. I'll probably have nightmares about my various fashion industry heroes staring me in the face with crazy eyes and demanding me to be burned at the stake for my published criticism of an absolute genius. I suppose my blog is called These Lips Might Sink Ships... Never do I want to become a Cathy Horyn, a could-be enemy of designers, ready to criticize their work at a moment's notice. I want to help create a world of fantasy. I want to help write the story. Tonight I'm leaning towards being instinctual. Sigh. Now for the less serious part:

Bianca Balti


Julia Johansen


Anastasia Gorodilova


Olga Sherer


Karolina Kurkova


Laura Blokhina


Siri Tollerød


Alana Zimmer


Anna Selezneva


Veronika Pospisilova


Samantha Gradoville


Bianca Balti


Photos via style.com

Prada Paradise.

As if any more joy could be pumped into the Spring/Summer 2011 collection, vivacious dancing and a soundtrack that is part electro, part eclectic percussion, have brought it to new heights. The campaign images were already quite lovely, but seeing Arizona Muse, Mariacarla Boscono, Tati Cotliar, Kinga Rajzak, and Zuzanna Bijoch in motion makes it all the sunnier, brighter, and more covetable. The Baroque-inspired sunglasses, the blue-on-white monkey print top, and the various fur stoles are of particular interest to me and my closet. The S/S 2011 season has had me sort of rethinking my typical aversion towards bright color. Never underestimate the power of light-hearted fashion.

Gareth Pugh at Pitti Uomo

Just as he did for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection, Gareth Pugh has collaborated with the vastly talented Ruth Hogben to produce a film for a new collection, show at Pitti Uomo, the extensive men's tradeshow in Florence, Italy. It seems an odd choice to show at the menswear event because while Pugh creates men's clothing, his women's collection seem to be his focus in general and in the film. Even so the designer told SHOWstudio that Pitti approached him, not the other way around. Model Natasa Vojnovic models alongside scantily clad male counterparts. Gareth knows the value of nudity, gyrating, and writhing.

The gold pieces are particular standouts in my opinion. I know, I'm a sucker for sparkle and shine. This is not news. This dress in particular is an absolute knockout.

SHOWstudio

My favorite part of the film itself is the black and white section, after Natasa has some kind of spasm while partially submerged in water. The voluminous, black, plastic-like cape is incredibly dynamic. The cape is paired with a leather pant, futuristic gladiator helmet, and powerful electro beats, providing for an intoxicating and undeniably beautiful shot. Pugh certainly hasn't lost his taste for showing his clothes in movement, thank goodness. I was surprised by his use of the powder blue in several of the looks. The soft color itself emanates such an innocent spirit that its presence is absolutely shocking to me. Somehow, Pugh managed to make it modern and at times, even powerful.

With Hogben's expert directorial capabilities, Pugh has proven that eliminating a runway show does not necessarily deal a catastrophic blow to a collection. In fact, this way he has more creative control and can create a more specific fantasy around the clothes. By no means am I calling this method better, but for this groundbreaking designer, the medium delivers a tremendous impact.

Nicola Formichetti's Mugler Debut

I don't know how to express my love for someone so simultaneously present and hidden, but I'll do my best. Nicola Formichetti is known most for styling Lady GaGa in the most incredibly inspiring, unrelenting, and fabulous of ways. Besides working alongside the pop superstar, he has introduced his talent and dark, yet fantastical vision through publications such as V and Vogue Hommes Japan. Seeing such a respectable stylist in this summer in Soho just left me in an awkward state of shock. I may have stopped on the sidewalk, though I can't remember, but a smile and a continued strut followed. After telling a fellow GaGa lover, he replied as if I'd forever have a curse upon me. I can't say I doubted it. At the very least I should have pulled a monster paw out and show my teeth, but my mind was in a state of delirium.

Upon hearing that he'd been appointed as the creative director at Theirry Mugler, the same headrush hit me. I don't pay attention to men's fashion whatsoever, so it says something that I've looked over the show and read reviews. I myself don't feel right reviewing it, as I have nothing to compare it to. I will say, there are definitely pieces I would wear and I would love to see men dress this way more often. The show, entitled, Anatomy of Change appears to be built upon a surgical and constructive way of thinking. Between the layers of latex, strains of black and midnight blue, the collection came out of the expected with a shocking neon orange and a vaguely androgynous feel. A film was published today highlighting the bodily nature of the show. The skeleton tattooing is a beautifully dark motif incorporated into the show and film. A remixed Lady GaGa track provides the soundtrack to both, with pulsing sex-club beats and aggressive lyrics (at times in German), bringing me to audio intoxication, if not orgasm. "I'll take you out tonight, say whatever you like." Needless to say, it's already on my iPod. Our Lady provides a perfect audio backdrop for the powerfully sexual collection. Another favorite part of the presentation as a whole is the veils that appear towards the end of the show. Though I don't imagine they are pieces for purchase, their movement is mesmerizing. Fantastic shots can be found at Jak & Jil. I must say, if a sexy tattooed man with skeleton-like face paint appeared in my bed at night, I don't think I'd be upset about it. Congratulations to Nicola! Enjoy this slice of ecstacy.

The Androgyny Issue

Katie Grand knows just how to woo me. I was over-the-moon when I saw the upcoming cover of LOVE. An upcoming issue of the magazine is always something to look forward to, but this particular issue, covered by Kate Moss and Riccardo Tisci muse, Lea T. left me with more satisfaction than usual. Fashion has recently embraced a number of individuals that do not fall into gender and/or sexuality norms, inviting in femme boys, butch girls, and others to feel at home in the sea of beauty.

Lea T., for example, is a young transgendered woman who has practically skyrocketed to fashion fame, appearing in a Givenchy campaign, runway show, and haute couture presentation. Recently, she's been shot for Vogue Paris and covered Lurve. The reassuring thing is that her presence doesn't seem like a gimmick. Riccardo Tisci has communicated his great friendship for Lea quite endlessly and she's a gorgeous model as well.

Another androgynous face likely to be seen in the magazine is Andrej Pejic, a male model whose long Barbie-blond hair and feminine features have caught the attention of several fashion industry players. His rather boyish turn in the S/S 2011 Marc by Marc Jacobs campaign seems odd, but I assume it's Marc twisting our ideas about gender roles even further. The Androgyny Issue is a cause for personal excitement simply because I don't dress like most boys and seeing alternative viewpoints being praised in a magazine I adore is quite the validation. I suppose there is potential for exploitation when featuring new and novel ideas, but I trust that the industry is so gay (and generally accepting) that this wave of attention is simply a celebration and liberation of all of us who don't follow the path we're so pressured into following. I did cringe a little when a classmate last quarter declared, "I think androgyny is becoming in." What an ugly word and a hideous thought, as if this is a fleeting moment. Let's hope not. I'll bet you've done us proud Miss Grand!

All photos via fashiongonerogue.com

Hidden Place

Seek solace, sanctuary, in the hidden place. Fairytales, flits of whimsy, and their darker secrets have me in a beautiful rapture. Among fairies and forest animals we'll walk, for pagan poetry seems a fitting substitute for the often disappointing world of reality. Not even the thought of depraved witches puts fear in my heart, for if they at all mimic that which GaGa emulates, they shall be wonderfully devious in ruffled bloomers and towering Nina Ricci platforms. Perhaps they'll join us, because in our world, good and evil are just a way of seeing things. The cruel thoughts belong to those in reality. I wish a flock of Monarch butterflies would perch upon my person, so I could join Sarah Burton's wood nymphs and women warriors. Sprouting Balenciaga wings would be a worthy alternative. A happy ending will not need manifest itself, for in this world the dreams never end. We are stardust, we are golden.

Delfine Bafort Shot by Sebastian Faena and styled by Kate Shillingford for V via MYFDBlog/Sasha Pivovarova by Tim Walker via Fashion Gone Rogue (2 , 11)/tvtropes/Lily Cole, Andrew Garfied, and Lady GaGa shot by Annie Leibovitz, styled by Grace Coddington for Vogue US via Fashionising (4, 8)/Sasha Pivovarova and Guinevere van Seenus shot by Paolo Roversi styled by Jacob K for Vogue Italia via Fashion Gone Rogue (5 ,7 )/Sasha Pivovarova for Prada S/S 2008 via I want - I got/Daphne Groenveld and Steven Thompson for Givenchy S/S 2011 via Fashion Gone Rogue/Sigrid Agren for Stella McCartney F/W 2009 via Trendland /Lily Donaldson, Sasha Pivovarova, Patricia van der Vliet, Caroline Trentini, Mirte Maas shot by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue US via Fashion Gone Rogue

Flash, Bang.

Insomnia met wakeful dreaming, a flash and exhilaration. All I will say is that it has something to do with a favorite design team of mine. More later. Sweet dreams lovers.

My Class Schedule

Survey of Tribal Art

Alexander Wang 2011


Celine 2011

Already it's clear that the diction regarding this course is a touchy subjects, as "tribal" and "primitive" often come under fire for not being politically correct. The fashion world also experiences similar heat when it interprets other cultures in certain ways. As for the Alexander Wang show, it's not the clothes, but the beauty elements that seem tribal, in the most literal meaning of the word. Bleached brows, septum piercings, and twisted, clay-soaked hair give the girls a ferocity that speaks to a less modern society, but somehow breaches the gap to work successfully with the urban clothing. At Celine, Phoebe Philo incorporated an artisan quality to the clothes, with woven pieces being my personal highlight. In my mind, they reference both African and South American parts of society that lack the urban sprawl Western societies are used to. That's not to say that lacking is a bad thing. I look forward to learning more about other cultures through this class and perhaps shed some of the ethnocentrism I've no doubt acquired during my life in the not-so-glorious U.S. of A.

The Planets

Christopher Kane Resort 2011

There is no collection more appropriate to represent my random Astronomy class, The Planets. Christopher Kane's prints of nebulae, galaxies, and the like are absolutely gorgeous and almost provoke my interest in Astronomy. The class itself may not measure up to his fantastic resort collection, but I'll keep dreaming.

Human Sexuality

Yves San Laurent Spring 2011


Marc Jacobs Spring 2011


Altuzarra Spring 2011

Sexuality is something I'm often enthralled by, whether it be related to my own experiences, in art, or elsewhere. Apparently, I'm not alone. At YSL, Stefano Pilati designed a lovely collection with elements of sex without going over the edge. Sometimes I'm not sure where my edge is, but such things are hardly ever black and white. A sheer top sans bra might be a frightening thought for most women, but I don't find it to be particularly vulgar or over-sexed at all. I generally just come to assume it's an American thing to be prudish in that way. French fashion, film, and other forms of art, often approach sex with ease, as if it's just part of life. Don't tell anyone over here, for they might just combust. Marc Jacobs also played with sheer fabrics for Spring to a more playful end, referencing the Seventies. The spirit of the decade is present with flowing dresses and exposed breasts. Sometimes I'm sad I missed a time for such freedom. As for Altuzarra, he went a more brazen direction, complete with cone bras. It is certainly a more aggressive way to infuse sex into fashion, but it's powerful and endlessly beautiful. Sure it's a bit vulgar, but it doesn't undermine or objectify women. It's a harnessed sexuality, not an accessible one. As you might guess, I'm quite pleased to be in this class. The professor is one I've had before and she mindfully acknowledges the comical situations that may arise, all the while expecting her students to leave ignorance at the door. It's all love, no matter what that means for you.

If this collection of looks is any indication, it's going to be a wonderful quarter.

All photos via style.com

Passionate bright young things

Perfect getting-ready music.

"Everglade"

The Original.

Side note: I had the privilege of meeting Scott in New York, outside a show. It was quite brief, but it is wonderful when you can tell someone you appreciate their work.

An Education

I've been meaning to watch An Education for quite some time now, so when I went to Netflix for a relaxing movie night, I gasped at the fact it was available for instant viewing. No decision necessary. Just hit play. The film tells the story of Jenny (Carey Mulligan) who is an intelligent potentially Oxford-bound schoolgirl, lost in the expectations of her demanding father. She lives for literature and dreams of going to Paris after school, where she "be French", will smoke, and wear black. Perhaps these seem quite simple and rather silly ambitions, but it is freedom that she truly lusts for.

With a chance encounter with a mysterious older man, she gains freedom, or at least more. She is introduced to a beautiful life lived by her interest, David, and his friends Helen and Danny. Their age difference is less discouraged than simply a matter of gossip. England is blessed with more freedoms when it comes selection of sexual partners in terms of age, or so they tell me. David woos Jenny with his world, or what appears to be, which includes fine art, music she dreams of hearing, and a trip to Paris. Along the way, she "evolves" into a woman, abandoning her lifeless hair and uniform for glamorous up-dos and lovely dresses, the uniform of a Sixties socialite. She is being educated by scholars of life—hard knocks beyond withheld. With all of life's beauty, she gets swept up and seems to forget about herself. Her straight-laced English teacher, Miss Stubbs, is one of the few that pushes her to snap out of it, to little success. She is actually one of my favorite characters, because a passionate spirit emerges from a steely shell. An independent woman and an English teacher no less and I'm in love. Needless to say, the plot thickens. By the end of the film, Jenny has learned more than she could ever expect, but I'll just let you figure out exactly what that means.

My hopes were not let down with this film. It's both a beautiful and thought-provoking film, for which I'm thankful for. I probably watch brainless movies too often. Carey Mulligan is adorable and nothing short of incredibly engaging. I am eager to see where her career will go (A Vogue cover has already happened). Anyway, I'm off to bed. I'll be having sweet dreams of British accents, French records, and traveling to Paris with that seemingly-batty old English teacher. Kiss kiss.

Images via aceshowbiz, SFGate, screencrave, rotten tomatoes, And Your Little Blog, Too

Mr. Ford's Lounge Act

Finally a in-motion peek inside the endlessly-discussed, but hush-hush Tom Ford comeback show. The show itself seems to mirror the clothes, as it focuses on a unrestrained and charismatic sense of beauty. The lounge-like setting complements the Seventies motifs and the subdued flits of Ford's notorious love of sexuality present in the collection. The opened down-to-there shirts were simultaneously nostalgic and modern. Ford's brand of sexy may just be what Fashion is missing. My favorite design motif was the hairy-looking fringe on several of the pieces, seen in shades ranging from pale pink to electric blue. The way Daphne Guiness worked her long evening coat drove me to maniacal giggles of happiness. There was also the fantastic shag carpet-like chubby on Joan Smalls. I want. His models were simply women who inspired him, regardless of age, race, or size. More than anything the show seems like the product of things the now-reclusive designer loves. Perhaps it's a simple and undeniably obvious concept, but it has brought forth beautiful results.

Some kids played house...

I'm sure my childhood obsession with Grease is responsible in part for my obsession with leather.

I'll be waiting

05.23.2011



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