These Lips Might Sink Ships...: Chanel F/W 2011

A gray summer day in Seattle seems an apt moment to write on Karl Lagerfeld's Fall collection for Chanel, despite the fact that it was shown months ago and the couture collections are already wrapping up. Truthfully, I have only my own procrastination to blame, but moving forward...

Lagerfeld presents a much darker vision for this collection, teeming with androgyny in the most classical sense. In fact, I would argue that from a strictly formal standpoint, this is his most Coco-like collection in quite some time. By merging the formality and intense detail that has become an intrinsic part of the Chanel empire, with a more practical and streetwise point-of-view, he appeals to Madame Chanel's pragmatic sensibility while satisfying the glamour necessary to carry the house as it exists today. Looking to his young devotees, he championed pants, whether they be denim or something more dressed up, to create a wonderfully boyish collection. Even long dresses took shape in knit fabrics, bestowing a heaviness to what's normally seen as quite feminine. An emphasis on layering similarly appeals to a young, street fashion conscious audience. I assume the surprising number of jumpsuits incorporated into the collection target the same audience. After months of mulling it over in my head, I still have not conclusively decided if I find these to be an exciting development, but they will no doubt find their way into the hearts of the cult of Chanel ambassadors, admirers, etc.

The set, composed of steaming black stones and a dark backdrop, alongside the often dark pallet (some white, red, and forest green cut through the shadows a bit), provided for a dark, even apocalyptic fairy tale to unfold. The capes on some of the models brought to mind Little Red Riding Hood, who appeared a bit tougher in her black leather boots. Perhaps Lagerfeld was ruminating on the state of the world at the moment, filled with disaster and threats of rapture. This train of thought would make sense given the recurring trend of dressing harder for hard times. To be sure, it wasn't all doom and gloom, as whimsical decoration and jumpsuits as evening wear had their fair share of face time. The designer himself mentioned in an interview with style.com that these women were emerging from the light after a disaster of sorts. Oh to be indestructible and in head-to-toe Chanel.

Stella Tennant