Chanel F/W 2011

A gray summer day in Seattle seems an apt moment to write on Karl Lagerfeld's Fall collection for Chanel, despite the fact that it was shown months ago and the couture collections are already wrapping up. Truthfully, I have only my own procrastination to blame, but moving forward...

Lagerfeld presents a much darker vision for this collection, teeming with androgyny in the most classical sense. In fact, I would argue that from a strictly formal standpoint, this is his most Coco-like collection in quite some time. By merging the formality and intense detail that has become an intrinsic part of the Chanel empire, with a more practical and streetwise point-of-view, he appeals to Madame Chanel's pragmatic sensibility while satisfying the glamour necessary to carry the house as it exists today. Looking to his young devotees, he championed pants, whether they be denim or something more dressed up, to create a wonderfully boyish collection. Even long dresses took shape in knit fabrics, bestowing a heaviness to what's normally seen as quite feminine. An emphasis on layering similarly appeals to a young, street fashion conscious audience. I assume the surprising number of jumpsuits incorporated into the collection target the same audience. After months of mulling it over in my head, I still have not conclusively decided if I find these to be an exciting development, but they will no doubt find their way into the hearts of the cult of Chanel ambassadors, admirers, etc.

The set, composed of steaming black stones and a dark backdrop, alongside the often dark pallet (some white, red, and forest green cut through the shadows a bit), provided for a dark, even apocalyptic fairy tale to unfold. The capes on some of the models brought to mind Little Red Riding Hood, who appeared a bit tougher in her black leather boots. Perhaps Lagerfeld was ruminating on the state of the world at the moment, filled with disaster and threats of rapture. This train of thought would make sense given the recurring trend of dressing harder for hard times. To be sure, it wasn't all doom and gloom, as whimsical decoration and jumpsuits as evening wear had their fair share of face time. The designer himself mentioned in an interview with style.com that these women were emerging from the light after a disaster of sorts. Oh to be indestructible and in head-to-toe Chanel.

Stella Tennant

Sasha Pivovarova

Kasia Struss

Karmen Pedaru

Aymeline Valade

Fei Fei Sun

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Kinga Rajzak

Julia Saner

Melissa Tammerijn

Merethe Hopland

Ginta Lapina

Mirte Maas

Aline Weber

Edie Campbell

Caroline de Maigret

Aymeline Valade

Josephine Skriver

Kasia Struss

Kinga Rajzak

Heidi Mount


Photos via style.com

Miu Miu F/W 2011

After the part-Sixties, part-mermaid collection at Prada, it comes to little surprise that Miuccia Prada's Fall/Winter work for Miu Miu was bit more subdued. The major point of reference appeared to be Forties Paris (where the Miu Miu collection is shown, unlike its sister brand), though typical throwback glamour it was not. The slightly nipped-in waist was met with sparkling shoes and cheeky exaggerated collars that gave it a more playful look that Ms. Prada is known for. The clean look of the collection, often in dark colors was made more intriguing by atypical shapes whether that be in the razor sharp collars or twisted pockets. A bit of fur and enormous coin purses further glamorized the collection.

The beautiful rusty oranges and mustards, as seen on Mariacarla Boscono and Ginta Lapina respectively, look fresh and even light, despite their saturated, rich tones. The dress on Sigrid Agren, printed with sprigs of white flowers, is a particular favorite of mine; one I will keep in mind when getting dressed this summer, all the while pretending to be an old world Parisian. In fact today, I wore a pair of harem pants in a burnt orange with lovely little red flowers scattered across the fabric (cat eye sunglasses provided the necessary time travel). Swallows were another wonderful print motif, especially when sequined. I do not favor simplicity all that often, but in this case, I can't deny the knock of subtlety at my heart's door. And who better than Miuccia Prada to make me a convert? At least ever so slightly.



Mariacarla Boscono


Kasia Struss


Sigrid Agren


Hailey Clauson


Anabela Belikova


Andie Arthur


Fei Fei Sun


Natasha Poly


Ginta Lapina


Hanne Gaby Odiele


Yulia Terentieva


Daga Ziober


Zuzanna Bijoch


Juju Ivanyuk


Ruby Aldridge


Photos via style.com

Louis Vuitton F/W 2011

The trace of fetishism seen at the Marc Jacobs show snowballed into what became the designer's delightfully kinky Fall/Winter collection for Louis Vuitton. And what better house to explore the interplay of ideas between fetish and fashion than the house with a logo that defined the label-lusting late 90's and early 2000's (it all sort of blends together)? I certainly haven't forgotten seeing a nude, David LaChapelle-captured Lil' Kim covered in only LV iconography. Our dear Mr. Jacobs seems to find humor in the logo's power anytime he gets a chance, whether it be in the form of lace or even incorporated into a fan (a la Spring/Summer 2011), and this collection is no exception.

Alongside the dialogue between fashion and fetish, Jacobs found inspiration in the 1974 film, The Night Porter (style.com). The Stephen Jones-created caps served as a rather direct reference to the film (which reeks of fetish as well), though the furry fabric that covered many of them, brought them into a realm of playfulness—but then again, perhaps that makes it all the more kinky. Hot rubber boots, jeweled handcuffs, and a general trend toward less clothing—whether that be constituted by sheer fabric or absence of pants entirely—drove home the message that fashion is fetishistic, especially when covered in the famed monogram. Mariacarla Boscono as a French maid (complete with feather duster) looked impossibly devilish, despite her prim Peter Pan collar. Other notable casting moments included a bevy of supermodels. Kate Moss closed the show with a cigarette in hand. Incredible. The collection as a whole often employed a lot of sculpted, curved lines, even appearing bulky at times, but for some reason the exaggerated silhouette worked. The bulbous shapes stood in contrast to more obvious expressions of sexuality, though I would suggest they were employed to add whimsy and humor to the collection.

In an interview with style.com, Jacobs discussed commitment and devotion to Fashion. Those handcuffs are perhaps his most striking example. The idea of inhibiting movement for the sake of aesthetics is absolutely beautiful. For all that fashion is criticized for, Jacobs finds joy in. But who wouldn't take joy in poking fun at one's employer and getting paid to do it? It's no secret that the bulk of the money made by the fashion house comes from handbags, while the ready-to-wear provide marginal returns. If for no other reason than that, Marc Jacobs is a genius.

Aymeline Valade

Raquel Zimmerman

Tati Cotliar

Rianne Ten Haken

Freja Beha Erichsen

Marike Le Roux

Daphne Groeneveld

Olga Sherer

Naomi Campbell

Zuzanna Bijoch

Dempsey Stewart

Britt Maren

Daga Ziober

Elsa Sylvan

Danielle Zinaich

Bruna Tenorio

Carmen Kass

Alana Zimmer

Natasha Poly

Mariacarla Boscono

Jessica Stam

Kate Moss

Photos via style.com