More importantly...

Speaking of...

Lady Gaga just performed with her own version of Nicola's panda eyes. I'm not so hot on the Sugarland thing, but...

Gaga on Criticism, Ms. Horyn

GAGA MEMORANDUM NO. 3

In her latest column for V magazine, Lady Gaga investigates critical culture, directing much attention to the esteemed (and notoriously harsh) Cathy Horyn. Gaga questions the necessity of being highly critical to the point that said criticism is negative to the point it becomes predictable. She herself has stated that critics are bullies, which one cannot easily disagree with. Certainly being a critic requires expertise and (hopefully) disgression, but often critical writing reads as if the writer is reveling in being mean spirited. I myself have weighed the value of being critical, struggling with saying something that could be potentially divisive. That is, if any of the creators I write about actually read my blog—they don't...yet. Every time I have this conversation, of sorts, Horyn comes up, perhaps because she is the most vocally critical fashion journalist alive today. Without a doubt, I feel that honest criticism is necessary to keep artists thinking forward and such shoes are difficult to fill. For that, I applaud Ms. Horyn's bravery, as I could not be so objective that I eliminate the possibility of befriending—or at least having the respect of—the world's most important designers (perhaps journalism isn't really for me...?).

Gaga asks, "Is it not even more critical for fashion and art critics to be profusely informed not only in art history but in the subliminal? The public operates with the assumption that critics are experts in their respective fields. But are they? Does every critic have the soul to really receive a work in the transcendental sense? The out-of-body experience of art?" Too often those who experience art only think of it in terms of good and bad. What I believe Gaga asks for in this column is a journalistic consciousness that looks deeper, that experiences the work. I sometimes wonder if I have the "soul" for it and cringe at the thought that I may not. Then again, I wonder that about a lot of things. Perhaps that's telling...or not at all.

I found the piece to be probing and important, even in it's a bit of an assault on Horyn. I still believe Horyn has a valuable place in the fashion community. This kind of discourse often has me searching within myself for a guide, if you will. I just hope Glitter Way presents itself to me in time.

Don't tell me I'm less than my freedom.

Gaga in Gareth?

Gareth Pugh, that is. It wouldn't be the first time.

style.com, youtube

no. 44

no. 43

I'm just a Holy Fool

Photo via gagadaily

Judas was released 4 days before its set release date.

Judas betrayed Jesus 4 days before he was resurrected.

"Judas" is a lusty, devilish sickness, complete with growls and heavy "fuck me" beats.

In the most Biblical sense,

I am beyond repentance

Fame hooker, prostitute wench, vomits her mind

But in the cultural sense

I just speak in future tense

Judas kiss me if offensed,

Or wear an ear condom next time

I'm still in love with Judas, baby.

Resurrection.

"Judas" is going to be sick.

Nació de esta manera. Qué fantástico!

gagadaily

Mugler

To begin to describe the event that was Nicola Formichetti's debut womenswear collection for Mugler is utterly daunting. Beyond the clothes themselves, there was the presence of his dear friend and collaborator Lady Gaga, her position as music director, and the premiere of Gaga's song "Goverment Hooker." A live stream revealed the backstage madness, in addition to more tender moments like Gaga telling Nicola how proud of him she was.

As the show started, a model took to the runway, slyly stomping between the columns on each side. Her look—featuring a pantsuit with exaggerated shoulders and a corset piece peeking out of the jacket—set the tone for the collection: powerful and unapologetic in its sexuality. Latex, sheer fabric, and bras with sharp lines followed. Gaga's first appearance was in a black bra under a sheer top with black accents wrapping around her arms and neck, a high-waisted black latex skirt that fell below the knee, and sick heel-less boots that she's taken a few spins in before. A geometric hat, long blonde pigtails, and a cigarette topped the look off. She stomped, danced against a column, and posed as if her life depended on it.

Not long after, more sculptural elements came into play. At times this appeared as bone-like shapes around the shoulder and arms. Some of the models wore garments that appeared as if they were peeling off, while others looked as if they possessed a protective shell. The architectural message throughout the show both honored the aesthetics of Thierry Mugler and Nicola's own taste. It capitalized on the ideas of anatomy that have been such an integral part of Formichetti's recent design process for both Gaga and the menswear collection.

Gaga closed the show in all white with a corset and bodysuit ensemble on top, a long white skirt, and towering white platform heels. She whipped a stole around with such vigor that one might think she'd stumble, but not a wobble was seen from this one. Even on her much higher heels, Gaga outwalked the professional models, several of whom staggered on their platform stilettos. It was a performance, not just a simple runway walk. To the rest of the models' credit, they exuded an incredible energy, vamping and clawing alongside their mistress. It was the kind of energy that helps make a show absolutely magical.

In my opinion, Nicola's recent work is an exciting reinterpretation of Thierry Mugler's legendary designs. This show displayed a surprising simplicity in many of the garments, but perhaps that was to make a more diplomatic transition for the house. The strong shoulders and pieces such as the leopard catsuit (much like an original Mugler that was featured in the "Paparazzi" video) were terrific moments of homage, while staying in line with Nicola's fashion sensibilities. Nicola spoke to style.com about Mugler's talent for entertainment, not just fashion design. Without a doubt, he has made significant leaps in both with this show. I am excited to watch as he pushes to take the fashion house to unexplored heights.

Kristina Salinovic

Ruby Aldridge

Hanaa ben Abdesslem

Alla Kostromichova

Emily Baker

Lady Gaga

Fei Fei Sun

Bambi Northwood-Blyth

Marike Le Roux

Coco Rocha

Joan Smalls

Ajak Deng

Rico

Jessica Stam

Juju Ivanyuk

Olga Sherer

Yulia Lobova

Lady Gaga


Photos via style.com