These Lips Might Sink Ships...: Alexander McQueen F/W 2011

With the "Savage Beauty" exhibition at the Met's Costume Institute, the wedding dress worn by Kate Middleton, among other dedications to the late Lee McQueen, it seems that even in death, the great designer's presence is no less felt. This is due in no small part to Sarah Burton's contributions to her mentor's fashion house. She has been praised by countless members of the fashion community for presenting a vision that is more feminine and approachable, all the while maintaining the McQueen DNA.

The Fall/Winter 2011 show, bearing the theme "The Ice Queen and her court," was a powerful presentation of Burton's personal touch, alongside the harder, tortured aesthetic that McQueen's work thrived on. Even the most pure and seemingly precious looks had their share of fight, whether it be shaved tulle on a skirt or long spikes coming out of wedge heels. This is a warrior queen, rather than one who spends the day lazing about. The beautiful helmet-like concentration of barrettes on each model, created by Guido Palau, further stressed this narrative, of a woman both ethereal and sovereign. The vast amount of fur incorporated into the collection provides for a feeling of ferocity and aggression that I find absolutely beautiful. The bondage elements are another highlight that (to me) reads as empowering. It's not that these women want to be tied up or dominated, but their choice to present themselves in this way shows power over one's body and sexual agency. The heavy emphasis on white garments might have come off as one-dimensional if created by another hand, but Burton and her team's attention to detail is absolutely extraordinary. The mosaic-esque bodice on Nimue Smit is a particular white-heavy standout in the realm of evening wear. Lest we forget McQueen's love of fantastical footwear, this season brought an array of incredible shoes, from the sexy lace-up variations to the black feathered wedges with metal plating. These serve as a reminder that McQueen's spirit and search for beauty was without limits. Just as the idea of beauty doesn't end with a dress (it may mean a head covered in barrettes or a fabulous pair of shoes), the same ideas of beauty don't end with what we think of as traditionally beautiful. Beauty can be found in the most horrifying of places, as McQueen asserted throughout his career. We must simply look with open eyes to find it.

Freja Beha Erichsen