These Lips Might Sink Ships...: Louis Vuitton F/W 2011

The trace of fetishism seen at the Marc Jacobs show snowballed into what became the designer's delightfully kinky Fall/Winter collection for Louis Vuitton. And what better house to explore the interplay of ideas between fetish and fashion than the house with a logo that defined the label-lusting late 90's and early 2000's (it all sort of blends together)? I certainly haven't forgotten seeing a nude, David LaChapelle-captured Lil' Kim covered in only LV iconography. Our dear Mr. Jacobs seems to find humor in the logo's power anytime he gets a chance, whether it be in the form of lace or even incorporated into a fan (a la Spring/Summer 2011), and this collection is no exception.

Alongside the dialogue between fashion and fetish, Jacobs found inspiration in the 1974 film, The Night Porter (style.com). The Stephen Jones-created caps served as a rather direct reference to the film (which reeks of fetish as well), though the furry fabric that covered many of them, brought them into a realm of playfulness—but then again, perhaps that makes it all the more kinky. Hot rubber boots, jeweled handcuffs, and a general trend toward less clothing—whether that be constituted by sheer fabric or absence of pants entirely—drove home the message that fashion is fetishistic, especially when covered in the famed monogram. Mariacarla Boscono as a French maid (complete with feather duster) looked impossibly devilish, despite her prim Peter Pan collar. Other notable casting moments included a bevy of supermodels. Kate Moss closed the show with a cigarette in hand. Incredible. The collection as a whole often employed a lot of sculpted, curved lines, even appearing bulky at times, but for some reason the exaggerated silhouette worked. The bulbous shapes stood in contrast to more obvious expressions of sexuality, though I would suggest they were employed to add whimsy and humor to the collection.

In an interview with style.com, Jacobs discussed commitment and devotion to Fashion. Those handcuffs are perhaps his most striking example. The idea of inhibiting movement for the sake of aesthetics is absolutely beautiful. For all that fashion is criticized for, Jacobs finds joy in. But who wouldn't take joy in poking fun at one's employer and getting paid to do it? It's no secret that the bulk of the money made by the fashion house comes from handbags, while the ready-to-wear provide marginal returns. If for no other reason than that, Marc Jacobs is a genius.

Aymeline Valade