These Lips Might Sink Ships...: Alexander McQueen

Ever since 11:30 a.m. PST (7:30 p.m. Paris time), I've been anxiously checking my computer in hopes of seeing Sarah Burton's first ready-to-wear show for Alexander McQueen. All day, I had been wearing (for the first time) the McQueen scarf I purchased in New York, in honor and anticipation. Finally, around 5:30, while in a meeting, the photos came up on style.com, and I gasped aloud. I was pleased to see a fantastic and appropriately referential collection that both honored the late genius and showed a respectfully subtle transition. Miss Burton's collection appeared to be inspired by the life cycle of nature, which seems a potentially touchy subject. I doubt Lee would have it any other way. She employed nostalgic motifs, such as feathers, as well as McQueen's taste for tailoring and courtly structure, though her take was a bit lighter. Among the heavy and aggressive black looks imitating death, Burton even included looks featuring celebratory butterflies, perhaps noting the possibility for metamorphosis and new life. The tension was classically McQueen, who himself often (dangerously) explored the dichotomy between light and dark. Just when it appeared that beautiful nightmares would close the show, Jac emerged in a wheat-covered bustier and peasant feather skirt, appearing eager to contribute to a harvest of sorts. The final look was a dramatic full-skirted feather creation in a pale gray that seemed to reassure McQueen's followers would not see a catastrophic death of his spirit, but that it would continue through Burton. The gray may also represent the leap that Burton must take in order to continue to push the collection without falling back on the past. Though I had fear, I believe there is no other person more fit to succeed McQueen. His right hand woman has achieved a nearly impossible feat with grace and conviction. It will be interesting to see where this journey will take her and the house.

Long live McQueen!

Juju Ivanyuk