Just as he did last season, Jason Wu has ignited the beginnings of New York Fashion Week with an incredibly strong collection. The collection centered around the idea of "baroque meets sportswear," inspired by the restoration of Versailles, as captured by Robert Polidori (style.com). The opening look—featuring a dainty suit under a more imposing gray coat with black lace running down the sleeves—set the tone. This line of thought accommodated for practicality as well as decoration. A quick look at the heavy emphasis on tailoring might call into question Wu's love of all things ladylike, but the decoration is done so pointedly that the clothes hardly seem androgynous. Color was left alone for the most part, with deep reds being the most exciting exception. Towards the end of the show, the glamor was in full force, first with the appearance of two feathered cocktail dresses, and climaxing as a heavily-embellished champagne column made the rounds. In his relatively short career, Jason Wu has found himself among New York's most promising talent. This collection is just further indication that his voice will continue to be heard and his innovations appreciated.
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Lady GaGa for Vogue
In Alexander McQueen
The full Lady GaGa Vogue spread has been released and naturally I am in love. Obviously they have styled her in a more Vogue way than she would be normally be (i.e. no fishents, no bodysuits, no sex shop treasures), but at the same time respected her taste, including three McQueen looks, and even letting her own leather jacket slip in—that is, her own Hussein Chalayan leather jacket. The sharp bob wigs also are a fitting representation of her style. I have a feeling that she sort of left it up to Tonne Goodman, willing to step out of her usual look. In a video on the set of her last Vogue photoshoot, she declared, "This is for you Anna." Judging by her appearances in the magazine, including a spot in the special Best Dressed Issue in which she was dubbed "The Visionary", I would say Anna has an intense adoration for GaGa. The Haider Ackermann dresses were an excellent choice because not only were they from a highly-praised collection,but the collection had a definite rock 'n roll feel to it. Side note: Karl Lagerfeld has been one of his biggest supporters as of late, nominating him as "New Master Draper" in V, and suggesting that Ackermann be his successor at Chanel. All in all, the spread is fantastic, from the Louis Vuitton jumpsuit to the Alexander McQueen finale dress. I have decided to restrain myself from reading the article, which I will save until it is in my grabby Monster paws. We'll see how long I last.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Valentino
In case their last three ready-to-wear collections have escaped your mind, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri want to remind you they enjoy pretty things, such as ruffles and sheer fabrics. While I don't get off on being critical, I feel sometimes a harsh(er) word is necessary. I fear these designers have become to accustomed to their Valentino formula, which favors neutrals, cute collared dress for daytime, a couple of obligatory red looks, and plenty romanticism. There are literally looks that appear to be nearly duplicates from other collections. I understand people who play to their strengths, however, this is nearing boring territory. Having said that, the Spring 2011 couture collection was quite beautiful. This time around, Piccioli and Chiuri incorporated butterflies and flowers. The rainbows and smiles were left at home. There was a bit more whimsy in this collection, due in part to the aforementioned decorative elements. A fantastic pale viridian-green fur was just one of the examples that added a little oddity to the mix. In whole, the collection appeared to be a technical triumph—as haute couture should. The way they stripped down the dresses gave them an impossible lightness that complimented the playful thematic thread. Truthfully, I have a great deal of respect for these two for doing their best (most of the time) to avoid tarnishing the Valentino name. They just need to push themselves.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Jean Paul Gaultier
I couldn't help, but to feel a bit irked when I read the beginning of Tim Blanks' review of the Jean Paul Gualtier couture show, which started, "The invitation safety-pinned a piece of fishnet to a piece of cardboard." The punk frame of reference is one I love if done right (most recently by Balenciaga and Balmain), but Gaultier's last ready-to-wear collection was an unsuccessful take on 80's rock and roll. I love the man, which made it all the more disappointing. Fortunately, Gaultier got it right this time. Naturally, the collection had a renegade quality to it, as Gaultier's work always does, but it wasn't contrived. It felt like an honest declaration of a feeling. This is what I think is beautiful. This is what "couture" means to me. Seeing a highly tailored, pant-heavy collection is always a fresh sight during the couture shows, which are often laden with billowing skirts—not that these were completely factored out. The models walked out with mohawked manes and number cards, the latter being a tongue-in-cheek reference to the couture shows of the past. Other notable show elements were the impossibly gorgeous Andrej Pejic as bride and a Can Can dancer whose upturned skirt revealed an excess of legs printed on the inside. There was something rough-and-tumble about each look, whether that be the addition of a chained choker or bondage-like buckles on the front of a ivory gown. Gaultier gave himself freedom within the collection, avoiding a singular statement, and providing an array of looks. A coral, silky, one-shouldered trench dress—a play on his trademark, the trench coat— served as a reminder of his talent and legacy, lest anyone forget. You had better not either, Monsieur Gaultier.
Sunday, February 6, 2011
I know we suffer for fashion or whatever
Almost a month ago, I obscurely noted that something inspiring happened late one night. So the story goes... I'm in bed thinking about the way I have interacted with fashion—and by "fashion" I mean designer fashion. My thoughts went to New York where I purchased the beginnings of my designer collection. One of the items I was dead-set on purchasing was the Proenza Schouler x J Brand hand painted jeans from the design duo's Fall 2010 collection. Unfortunately, I'm too skinny or something (I know, poor me), because none of the major department stores ordered the jeans in my size. Of course, being shamelessly covetous was the next natural step. So I'm mentally checking off all of the avenues by which I can claim these beauties as my own and I even tell myself I'm willing to call the showroom and offer to pay full price (they are out of season now). Then, a burst of adrenaline hits me, I grab my computer and search for all of 15 minutes and find them in a 25 on the Bergdorf Goodman website on sale. Again, I would have paid full price. Side note: I purchase all of my own clothes. Mine is not a "Daddy-can-you-deposit-money-in-my-account?" situation. So I order them and try to breathe and end up not sleeping. In my mind, insomnia is an insignificant side effect from such an experience. The thought that I will own something Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough dreamt up and hand painted is amazing beyond the realm of the explainable. I received them a week or so later and they fit perfectly. I so in love that I'm afraid something catastrophic will happen every time I wear them, but nothing has yet occurred. Another recent purchase was my first "real" pair of high heels, Jeffrey Campbell wedges with a sick little architectural cutout in the heel. Naturally, I whined to my friend and roommate, Alison, until she took pictures of me. The last one was candid, but makes me smile because I'm reminded of the Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton documentary (The entire film is on youtube!) when Irina Lazareanu explains the difference between a Louis Vuitton pose and a Marc Jacobs pose (see 6:15). I am of the latter variety. I apologize for my case of sexyface, but enjoy these as best as you can. In addition, I apologize if I've offended you with my materialism. For me, it's just not that simple. Kiss kiss.
Slience + Noise blazer, T-shirt from Urban Outfitters (cut by me), Proenza Schouler x J Brand Jeans, Jeffrey Campbell wedges,
Ring from Moksha, studded bangles from Nordstrom, black bracelet from Urban Outfitters
Ring from Moksha, studded bangles from Nordstrom, black bracelet from Urban Outfitters
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