In case their last three ready-to-wear collections have escaped your mind, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri want to remind you they enjoy pretty things, such as ruffles and sheer fabrics. While I don't get off on being critical, I feel sometimes a harsh(er) word is necessary. I fear these designers have become to accustomed to their Valentino formula, which favors neutrals, cute collared dress for daytime, a couple of obligatory red looks, and plenty romanticism. There are literally looks that appear to be nearly duplicates from other collections. I understand people who play to their strengths, however, this is nearing boring territory. Having said that, the Spring 2011 couture collection was quite beautiful. This time around, Piccioli and Chiuri incorporated butterflies and flowers. The rainbows and smiles were left at home. There was a bit more whimsy in this collection, due in part to the aforementioned decorative elements. A fantastic pale viridian-green fur was just one of the examples that added a little oddity to the mix. In whole, the collection appeared to be a technical triumph—as haute couture should. The way they stripped down the dresses gave them an impossible lightness that complimented the playful thematic thread. Truthfully, I have a great deal of respect for these two for doing their best (most of the time) to avoid tarnishing the Valentino name. They just need to push themselves.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
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