Gareth Pugh

Discussing a collection by Gareth Pugh is a novel experience, as the young designer takes little interest in designing clothing with a theme in mind. More than anything it seems that he takes interest in visual development. Pugh's work can be seen as an open dialogue that builds upon itself and even questions itself. Tim Blanks called the Fall/Winter 2011 collection a "consolidation" but I feel that word carries unintended negativity, and could be interpreted as if Pugh isn't creative enough to produce something new. There was no denying that the Pugh DNA was present at the appearance of chevrons, a lust for the future, and the steady flow of black. The familiar aside, Pugh has brought forth an uncharacteristic azure color and continued to explore fluidity in clothing with even more vigor than in his past collections. A series of gilded pieces that could be compared to magnificent and futuristic chain mail closed the show, effectively choking the darkness that is so integral in Pugh's shows. I think he's very aware of his aesthetic and how other people perceive it and hopes to challenge their minds a bit. While in other cases it may come off as lazy, Pugh's singularity across collections is powerful. There's something tribal and perhaps even a bit religious about the way he has framed his creative identity. His convictions are rigorous and severe, but continue to develop quite beautifully.

Melissa Tammerijn

Roberta Narciso

Joan Smalls

Kate King

Marique Schimmel

Maddie Kulicka

Britt Maren

Constance Jablonski

Katsia Zingarevich

Marique Schimmel

Renee Germaine van Seggern

Fei Fei Sun

Frida Gustavsson

Alla Kostromichova

Karlie Kloss

Gareth Pugh at Pitti Uomo

Just as he did for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection, Gareth Pugh has collaborated with the vastly talented Ruth Hogben to produce a film for a new collection, show at Pitti Uomo, the extensive men's tradeshow in Florence, Italy. It seems an odd choice to show at the menswear event because while Pugh creates men's clothing, his women's collection seem to be his focus in general and in the film. Even so the designer told SHOWstudio that Pitti approached him, not the other way around. Model Natasa Vojnovic models alongside scantily clad male counterparts. Gareth knows the value of nudity, gyrating, and writhing.

The gold pieces are particular standouts in my opinion. I know, I'm a sucker for sparkle and shine. This is not news. This dress in particular is an absolute knockout.

SHOWstudio

My favorite part of the film itself is the black and white section, after Natasa has some kind of spasm while partially submerged in water. The voluminous, black, plastic-like cape is incredibly dynamic. The cape is paired with a leather pant, futuristic gladiator helmet, and powerful electro beats, providing for an intoxicating and undeniably beautiful shot. Pugh certainly hasn't lost his taste for showing his clothes in movement, thank goodness. I was surprised by his use of the powder blue in several of the looks. The soft color itself emanates such an innocent spirit that its presence is absolutely shocking to me. Somehow, Pugh managed to make it modern and at times, even powerful.

With Hogben's expert directorial capabilities, Pugh has proven that eliminating a runway show does not necessarily deal a catastrophic blow to a collection. In fact, this way he has more creative control and can create a more specific fantasy around the clothes. By no means am I calling this method better, but for this groundbreaking designer, the medium delivers a tremendous impact.

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh crept slightly outside of his nightmarish hovel to give us a bit of glamour. His inspiration for his latest collection was the dangerous women we call sirens. Art Deco was also mentioned, as chevrons were used extensively. I found the collection to be absolutely wondrous. He maintained his style and attributed something new and different (for him) to it. The cape-like trend through some of the pieces is absolutely fantastic.

Alla Kostromicheva


Anna Selezneva


Frida Gustavsson


Karlie Kloss


Edita Vilkeviciute


Daria Strokous


Abbey Lee Kershaw


Frida Gustavsson


Edita Vilkeviciute


Daria Strokous


Heidi Mount


Patricia van der Vliet


Anastasia Kuznetsova


Jacquelyn Jablonski


Abbey Lee Kershaw


As always, Gareth included some man candy, to which I say thank you.


On another note, rumors are swirling that Pugh may be set to replace the legendary Alexander McQueen. This makes sense, I suppose, but just the idea that someone is replacing such an amazing artist makes me a bit sick. On one hand, I feel as though creating in his name and extending his legacy is a beautiful gesture, but it's also a bit tasteless, as no one will ever measure up to his work. In any case, it's much too soon to be thinking about.

Photos by style.com

Gareth Pugh

This season Gareth Pugh's collection, like his presentation, had a focus on the future and technology. Instead of having a typical runway show, the young designer collaborated with supermodel Kristin McMenamy, model Jonathan Baker, and filmmaker Ruth Hogben to create a short film for the collection. Kristin is a force of nature within the technological universe created for her, showing the beautiful movement to the clothes. The collection itself was fairly light for Pugh in terms of color, with only a few black pieces. Bionic-looking paneling, sharp lines, and mirrored fabrics met unexpectedly flowing shapes that came alive through film. The lookbook hardly holds a candle, but I selected a few looks that I particularly like that can be more easily seen than the sometimes kaleidoscopic film. Watch it and you will more readily understand the beauty created by the aforementioned artists.

Hanna Kern models.











Photos via style.com

Gareth Pugh

Tim Blanks said it best when he dubbed this season's Pugh girl a "postapocalyptic princess". I haven't followed Pugh in the past, but now I'm curious to see what else he has created. Look after look, I was mesmerized by the insanity that was Gareth's Spring/Summer collection for 2010. Even some of the men's clothes caught my eye, which is quite a feat since I am constantly complaining about how boring men's fashion is. Those looks were rather androgynous, which might explain my interest. Pugh has Paris off to an incredible start. I cannot wait to see what follows....

Karlie Kloss


Freja Beha Erichsen

Alla Kostromicheva


Dorothea Barth Jorgensen

Bregje Heinen

Magdalena Frackowiak


Anna Selezneva

Karlie Kloss

Magdalena Frackowiak



Kasia Struss

Abbey Lee

Frida Gustavsson


photos by style.com