Discussing a collection by Gareth Pugh is a novel experience, as the young designer takes little interest in designing clothing with a theme in mind. More than anything it seems that he takes interest in visual development. Pugh's work can be seen as an open dialogue that builds upon itself and even questions itself. Tim Blanks called the Fall/Winter 2011 collection a "consolidation" but I feel that word carries unintended negativity, and could be interpreted as if Pugh isn't creative enough to produce something new. There was no denying that the Pugh DNA was present at the appearance of chevrons, a lust for the future, and the steady flow of black. The familiar aside, Pugh has brought forth an uncharacteristic azure color and continued to explore fluidity in clothing with even more vigor than in his past collections. A series of gilded pieces that could be compared to magnificent and futuristic chain mail closed the show, effectively choking the darkness that is so integral in Pugh's shows. I think he's very aware of his aesthetic and how other people perceive it and hopes to challenge their minds a bit. While in other cases it may come off as lazy, Pugh's singularity across collections is powerful. There's something tribal and perhaps even a bit religious about the way he has framed his creative identity. His convictions are rigorous and severe, but continue to develop quite beautifully.
Melissa Tammerijn
Roberta Narciso
Joan Smalls
Kate King
Marique Schimmel
Maddie Kulicka
Britt Maren
Constance Jablonski
Katsia Zingarevich
Marique Schimmel
Renee Germaine van Seggern
Fei Fei Sun
Frida Gustavsson
Alla Kostromichova
Karlie Kloss
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