These Lips Might Sink Ships...: Mugler

To begin to describe the event that was Nicola Formichetti's debut womenswear collection for Mugler is utterly daunting. Beyond the clothes themselves, there was the presence of his dear friend and collaborator Lady Gaga, her position as music director, and the premiere of Gaga's song "Goverment Hooker." A live stream revealed the backstage madness, in addition to more tender moments like Gaga telling Nicola how proud of him she was.

As the show started, a model took to the runway, slyly stomping between the columns on each side. Her look—featuring a pantsuit with exaggerated shoulders and a corset piece peeking out of the jacket—set the tone for the collection: powerful and unapologetic in its sexuality. Latex, sheer fabric, and bras with sharp lines followed. Gaga's first appearance was in a black bra under a sheer top with black accents wrapping around her arms and neck, a high-waisted black latex skirt that fell below the knee, and sick heel-less boots that she's taken a few spins in before. A geometric hat, long blonde pigtails, and a cigarette topped the look off. She stomped, danced against a column, and posed as if her life depended on it.

Not long after, more sculptural elements came into play. At times this appeared as bone-like shapes around the shoulder and arms. Some of the models wore garments that appeared as if they were peeling off, while others looked as if they possessed a protective shell. The architectural message throughout the show both honored the aesthetics of Thierry Mugler and Nicola's own taste. It capitalized on the ideas of anatomy that have been such an integral part of Formichetti's recent design process for both Gaga and the menswear collection.

Gaga closed the show in all white with a corset and bodysuit ensemble on top, a long white skirt, and towering white platform heels. She whipped a stole around with such vigor that one might think she'd stumble, but not a wobble was seen from this one. Even on her much higher heels, Gaga outwalked the professional models, several of whom staggered on their platform stilettos. It was a performance, not just a simple runway walk. To the rest of the models' credit, they exuded an incredible energy, vamping and clawing alongside their mistress. It was the kind of energy that helps make a show absolutely magical.

In my opinion, Nicola's recent work is an exciting reinterpretation of Thierry Mugler's legendary designs. This show displayed a surprising simplicity in many of the garments, but perhaps that was to make a more diplomatic transition for the house. The strong shoulders and pieces such as the leopard catsuit (much like an original Mugler that was featured in the "Paparazzi" video) were terrific moments of homage, while staying in line with Nicola's fashion sensibilities. Nicola spoke to style.com about Mugler's talent for entertainment, not just fashion design. Without a doubt, he has made significant leaps in both with this show. I am excited to watch as he pushes to take the fashion house to unexplored heights.

Kristina Salinovic