These Lips Might Sink Ships...: Prada

The models who walked in the latest Prada show had something distinctly girlish about them. Granted, a high percentage are probably 15 or 16 years-old, but the clothes and even the way the bags were held—nervously clutched to the chest—radiated naivete. This season, Miuccia Prada sought to explore materials closely associated with glamor—such as python, fur, and sequins—and make them innocent once again in a process of reverse corruption. A Sixties, drop-waist silhouette dominated the collection with hemlines just over the knee, calling to mind schoolgirls, especially when printed in magnified plaid. The knee-high boots that came down the runway appeared to be Mary Janes paired with stockings, when in fact Prada has created a tromp l'oeil effect which speaks to her love of socks. These were most striking examples of Prada attributing a perversity to a defined style within this collection. Aviatrix caps gave me thoughts of ambitious little girls playing dress-up in unexpected ways. Despite the overwhelming girlishness of the collection, I'd suggest this is Miuccia praising those girls who adamantly follow a path that is less than female-friendly. The oversized python coats enveloped their wearers, hopelessly obnoxious and all the while endearing. Sections of shaggy fur decorated coats and few dresses, leaving room for playfully large buttons and complementary belts. The end of the show was the most dreamy and fantastic, featuring looks constructed with sizable paillettes, doubling as nearly-aquatic scales. Furry swim caps of questionable function somehow looked right, even with a pair of goggle-like orange sunglasses. Whatever the case may be, these looks were an absolutely mesmerizing summation of the ideas of innocent glamor. As a whole, this was certainly not the most mysterious Prada show, but it certainly maintained the quirk that has made so many fall in love. But to speak truthfully, I'm not sure I care about mystery as long as I can look like a creature from the Prada lagoon.

Marique Schimmel