These Lips Might Sink Ships...: Haider Ackermann

You will have to excuse my lack of presence as of late. I've been feeling rather off and not all that capable of producing writing to be proud of. Or at least I have had that mindset. Anyway, I am going to try my best to finish posts from the Fall/Winter 2011 season in a timely fashion.

My awareness of Haider Ackermann is a rather recent development that I would guess is no more than two seasons old. His Spring/Summer 2011 collection in particular saw a wave of praise from all avenues of the fashion press. He has even been rumored to be one of the candidates that will take the helm of Dior. The attention is much deserved, as his talent is seemingly limitless. His Fall/Winter 2011 collection is fantastic to say the least. Ackermann's skill for folding and draping his creations is at work again, contributing to a somehow perfectly worked woman undone. His aesthetic is unlike any designer that I know of. This collection gave rise to a rather otherworldly kind of woman. Subdued, even moody jewel tones are a major emphasis of the collection. There's a darkness to the color that is indescribable and absolutely beautiful. Aggressively sexy cutout skirts that expose thighs and the few beaded pieces are elements that challenge the darkness that is so palpable. It's this kind of contradiction and Ackermann's interest in the fusion of ideas in silhouette and elsewhere, that make him such an inspiring creator. Looking at the images from the show, I am filled with a great deal of feeling that isn't specifically negative or positive. It's quite powerful. Ackermann's uncompromising vision and innately modern perspective will surely be provoking feeling and thought for many seasons to come.

Daiane Conterato