Sunday, October 3, 2010

Celine

With her latest collection, Phoebe Philo continues to champion clean, wearable luxury at Celine, but has drifted ever so slightly into the frame of ethnic reference. A heavy focus on whites, ivories, and cream colors spoke to Philo's love of simplicity, but the first sign of fringe on Arizona Muse changed expectations of the looks to come. Bits of the South American-esque knit continued shortly after, giving me thoughts of a poncho-wearing villager in mountainous regions within our neighboring continent. The hooded version on Jac would be loved like a child if it were in my closet. A few printed looks seemed to reference Africa instead. Philo avoided the dangers of kitsch that can so easily swallow designers who reference cultures foreign to them, maintaining her aesthetics and integrating the ideas without letting them take over. The rest of the collection was to-the-point luxury, with a slightly looser silhouette than seasons past. The relaxed trousers, featuring an exposed zipper, were a major focus, coming in a variety of colors, and at times even sporting colorful stripes down the leg. With the collection, Phoebe continues to prove that she deserves all the attention being paid to her, though she seems rather afraid of it. Her talent and influence will continue to be palpable for seasons to come.

Juju Ivanyuk
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Arizona Muse
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Kendra Spears
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Sigrid Agren
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Mirte Maas
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Jac
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Julia Saner
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Debora Muller
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Nimue Smit
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Fabiana Mayer
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Jacquelyn Jablonski
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Arizona Muse
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Caroline Brasch Nielsen
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Karmen Pedaru
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Photos via style.com

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