Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's latest collection is a bold reaction to the fifties-inspired, lady-like fashion that walked the runways for Fall. They experimented with what they called "codes of femininity," completely subverting them through various design techniques. The show began with a sense of muted, slightly disheveled, polish, but eventually gave way to neon and ended with the Proenza girl we all know and love. Tweed, chiffon, lace, and sequins were critical materials used to acknowledge the "codes" though the manner in which they were handled stripped them of their obvious implications. The "lace" for example, was an embroidered fabric, dipped in acid, dissolving the base and leaving only the embroidery. Additional treatments and the liberal use of audacious colors were other methods the designers employed to push the limit of feminine convention. From the heavy, crafty-looking jewelry to the final tank-dresses, I love it all. I'm especially pleased with the clever rejection of what is considered trendy. These boys always leave me refreshed, yet craving what is to come.
Daria Strokous
Abbey Lee Kershaw
Anja Rubik
Kate Kosushkina
Ginta Lapina
Chloe Memisevic
Joan Smalls
Kasia Struss
Diana Dondoe
Jacquelyn Jablonski
Shu Pei Qin
Anabela Belikova
Sigrid Agren
Ginta Lapina
Melissa Tammerijn
Anja Rubik
Abbey Lee Kershaw
Caroline Brasch Nielsen
Kirsi Pyrhonen
Photos via NY Mag
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